PROPER MUSHY PEAS: CHIP SHOP STYLE LittleSugarSnaps (2024)

Marrowfat peas soak overnight and cook in 30 minutes in this easy homemade mushy peas recipe that makes a noteworthy classic British side order for fish and chips. Mashed or pureed fresh peas are no substitute for the real thing.

My favourite order from the fish and chip shop has always been a pea mix. That’s a portion of chips with a generous serving of mushy peas unceremoniously dolloped on top.

Back in the day, this culinary delight came drenched in salt and vinegar and eaten straight from the newspaper it came wrapped in along with a wooden fork. Humble? Maybe. Total bliss? Oh yes.

Over the years I’ve noticed that there’s some confusion over what proper mushy peas are. They are sometimes mistaken for mashed garden peas. But they are not the same thing at all. So to set the record straight, I’ve devised this detailed traditional homemade mushy peas recipe. I hope you find it useful.

What are Mushy Peas?

Mushy peas are dried marrowfat peas that have been soaked in water and bicarbonate of soda and then cooked until they turn soft and creamy.

They are usually on the menu at fish and chip shops throughout the entire of Britain but are particularly popular in Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire, Lincolnshire and Yorkshire (where they are alternatively known as Yorkshire caviar).

Mushy peas cannot be made from fresh or frozen garden peas since they do not break down in the same way that marrowfat peas do.

Be aware that if you come across a so-called recipe for mushy peas that uses garden peas what you will actually end up with is crushed peas or pureed peas. The texture and flavour will be entirely different. Being totally honest, I’m not a huge fan of such recipes as I find that, once mashed, the skin on garden peas can be hard to digest (cough cough).

Proper mushy peas do not need to be blended or mashed. They break down to their soft and creamy consistency naturally.

Why make this recipe?

You can buy mushy peas in tins, but when catering for more than just 2 people, this is neither a cost-effective, nor a particularly environmentally friendly way to proceed.

Making your own is very cheap and easy with this mushy peas recipe that can be scaled up to feed a crowd. They can also be frozen, so make a big batch and freeze in suitable portions for up to 3 months.

Mushy peas are naturally vegan and gluten-free. They are also low in fat and count towards your five-a-day. Loaded with Vitamin A, C, B1, Iron and Phosphorous and rich in protein and fibre, these peas are highly nutritious.

Tinned mushy peas also typically include added sugar, whereas this recipe does not, so these homemade peas are healthier.

Health benefit aside, homemade mushy peas can be cooked to the consistency that you prefer and seasoned as you see fit. So soft and creamy wholesome pea deliciousness is yours for the taking.

Ingredients

It’s not very often that I’m strict when it comes to ingredient substitutions for recipes. But there is no substitute for the dried marrowfat peas in any mushy peas recipe.

As previously explained, using fresh or frozen garden peas will not produce real mushy peas, just pea puree or mash. The texture and taste of which bears no resemblance to proper mushy peas at all.

Dried marrowfat peas are normal green peas that have been left to mature and dry out on the vine before they are harvested. They contain a high proportion of starch, which lends itself to the celebrated soft and creamy texture of mushy peas.

For this reason they are an essential ingredient in any authentic mushy peas recipe.

Dried marrowfat peas are readily available in UK supermarkets and online. A quick soak (2 hours) variety is also available – just follow the soaking instructions on the packet and proceed straight to step 3 in the recipe card below.

Bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)added to the peas whilst soaking helps retain colour and, more importantly, it helps to soften their skins, allowing them to absorb the soaking water. It is another vital ingredient.

By the way, baking powder cannot be used in place of the bicarb – it does not soften the peas liking baking soda does.

Step by Step Instructions

Step 1: Put the peas into a saucepan, add the bicarbonate of soda and the water then bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes

Step 2: Take off the heat and leave to soak for at least 6 hours, but preferably 12. At the end of the soaking time the water will look yellow and the peas will have swelled

Step 3: Drain the peas and rinse in several changes of cold water to get rid of the bicarbonate of soda

Step 4: Put the peas into a clean pan and add ⅔ of the water. Bring to a gentle boil and cook for approximately 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until the peas are soft and creamy. Add more of the remaining water if necessary to keep the texture loose and loose

Step 5: The peas are ready when soft, creamy and mushy. Season as desired and serve straight away. I suggest ⅛ teaspoon black pepper, ½ teaspoon malt vinegar and ½ teaspoon of salt. This adds taste without turning the peas vinegary and from this base diners can increase the seasonings as they see fit

Expert Tips

This recipe is straightforward but does take some advance planning since the marrowfat peas need to be soaked for a significant length of time. To ensure success keep in mind the following suggestions:

• The best way to approach this recipe is to prepare the peas for soaking either first thing in the morning or last thing at night so they have plenty of time to absorb the necessary water before you intend to cook them
• Treat mushy peas as you would a risotto. Frequent stirring is essential to stop the mix sticking to the bottom of the pan, to ensure they cook evenly and to achieve a creamy consistency
• The cooking time presented is a guide. Your peas may take more or less time to cook depending how long they have soaked for and how much water your peas have managed to absorb
• The mushy peas are ready when they are soft, perhaps with a little texture and bite, but they should certainly not be chewy or hard. If in doubt, cook a little longer
• If they appear too loose, just cook a little longer. If they are too thick, add a little more water
• Without any seasoning these peas are incredibly bland. Some people add a little sugar, but I find the balance of salt, pepper and vinegar presented in the recipe card spot on. Feel free to adjust the seasoning to your personal tastes
• Expect homemade mushy peas to have a slightly murky colour compared to those comercially made. Many manufacturers disguise this natural colour by adding food colouring. I don’t advocate adding green colouring to this recipe as it serves no real purpose
• This recipe can be made in advance. The peas will continue to absorb liquid as they stand, so it will be necessary to add a splash of water when reheating to loosen the mixture and bring the peas back to a creamy consistency

Frequently Asked Questions

What to eat them with

• Join me in my favourite – the pea mix. Since moving away from Nottingham I’ve discovered that the pea mix is a very localised delicacy that is popular in Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire but practically unheard of through the rest of the country. I feel I need to fly the flag for it
• And whilst in the chippy, mushy peas are, of course, the perfect partner to fish and chips too
• They are also regularly paired with a meaty pastry pie – another classic chip shop combination.
• Alternatively, serve these homemade mushy peas in a mug or bowl with a splash of salt & vinegar. This is a popular snack throughout much of Northern England and The Midlands at outdoor events such as Bonfire Night and the Nottingham Goose Fair
• Go for minted mushy peas by adding a little mint sauce
• Leftover peas can be refrigerated and turned into chip shop style mushy pea fritters

Serve them on Bonfire Night

I cannot wait to whip up this mushy peas recipe on Bonfire Night, which we always celebrate at home. If you are looking for ideas on how to cater for Bonfire Night, read my guide.

And be sure to try out a few of my other popular Bonfire Night recipes:

• Toffee Apple Flapjack
• Blackberry Hot Chocolate
• Sticky Toffee Cupcakes

Have you made this recipe for proper chip shop style mushy peas? I hope you enjoyed it – please leave a rating and/ or comment to let me know what you thought.

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