How to spend a glamorous weekend in Dubrovnik (2024)

Overlooking the calm blue Adriatic, Dubrovnik is one of the world’s most magnificent walled cities. Once the capital of the mighty sea-faring Republic of Ragusa (1358-1808), it’s now Croatia’s most upmarket destination. Historically, this diminutive republic was sophisticated, refined and cultured.

Today, the pedestrian-only Old Town – packed with aristocratic palazzi and elegant Baroque churches, contained within sturdy medieval fortifications – draws hundreds of thousands of visitors annually, including glamorous names such as Kate Winslet,John Malkovitch, and David and Victoria Beckham. Beyond the walls, attractions include wine bars, classy seafood restaurants and five-star hotels.

And then there’s the glorious rock-and-pebble coast, with beaches, scuba diving and sea kayaking. Some of the best beaches lie on Lapad peninsular, two miles (3km) west of town; or you might try tiny Lokrum islet, with its botanical garden (you can get taxi-boats from the old town harbour); or the pine-scented Elaphiti islands (ferry from Gruž port).

For further Dubrovnik inspiration, see our guides to the city’s best hotels, restaurants, bars and nightlife and things to see and do.

• How to spend your weekend

• Insider tips

• When should I visit Dubrovnik?

• Where to stay in Dubrovnik

• What to bring home

• Essential information: what to know before you go

To get some idea of how local aristocrats once lived, visit theCultural History Museum. Based in the 15th-century Rector’s Palace, this is where the rector (city governor) would reside during his one-month term in office – on display are portraits of cross-looking local nobles, as well as period furniture, costumes and clocks.It was also used as a location for Game of Thrones – if you’re a fan, you will recognise it as the atrium to the Spice King’s palace in Qarth.

Nearby, the 17th-century Baroque Cathedral is also well worth a look in for its impressive Treasury, displaying ornately crafted golden reliquaries, including the skull of St Blaise (Dubrovnik’s patron saint). And for liquid gold, call at Ujeon the Stradun, a shop specialising in Croatian olive oil – the owners have their own olive groves on the island of Brač, and you can ask to taste their oils before making a purchase. Find more of the best things to do in the city in our guide.

Spend the night in the Old Town, packed with candle-lit tables and sun-tanned diners on summer evenings. Start with a sunset drink at Buža, accessed through a tiny doorway in the city walls. Tables are arranged on a series of levels on the rocks overlooking the sea – informal but truly magical on a balmy evening.

Then, splash out at the romantic fish restaurantProto, to feast on lobster risotto and grilled sea bream – King Edward VIII and Wallace Simpson dined here in 1936. Round off the evening with a nightcap at M’arden, serving quality Croatian wines in a secluded walled garden. Discover the best of Dubrovnik’s nightlife with our guide.

Then return to town to shop for gifts. Immediately outside Ploče Gate, Life According to Kawais a welcoming concept store, specialising in quirky Croatian designer items, including their own limited edition of Dalmatia-inspired T-shirts and mugs, tastefully packaged rakija (a potent spirit) by Mashtel from Nin, and beautifully illustrated Croatian cookery books.

Nearby, inside Ploče Gate, Dubrovačka Kućastocks paintings and ceramics by recognised Croatian artists, including raku-glazed ceramic fish by Ljiljana Barbarić, and ceramic candle-holders decorated with floral motifs by Andrea Bassi. Have lunch atBarba, serving street food based on fresh local seafood – try the octopus burger, in a bread bun with salad and mayonnaise.

To discover more about Dubrovnik’s historic naval power, visit theMaritime Museumin St John’s Fortress, overlooking the old harbour. In the 16th century, the city-republic had one of the world’s largest fleets, with more than 180 ships and 4,000 sailors – exhibits here include model ships from that time, as well as navigational equipment, flags and maps.

Afterwards, grab an ice cream at nearbyGianni’s, then spend the afternoon sunbathing and swimming in the deep blue Adriatic.Banje beach, immediately outside the town walls, and has a bar serving chilled drinks – take your own beach towel and lie on the pebbles, or pay extra for a sun-bed and parasol.Above the beach, there is a lounge-bar on a wooden deck, serving co*cktails and snacks.

Start the evening in the Old Town with an amusing and informative Dalmatian wine tasting "flight" (either three reds; or three whites) at D’Vino wine bar in the Old Town – it’s mellow and cosy, with several outdoor tables in the narrow side street.

For dinner, head toAzur,serving unusual but astoundingly delicious "Cro-Asian" dishes devised by the owner-chef, combining Dalmatian ingredients with Thai spices and fragrant herbs – try the superb swordfish fillet in black curry sauce.Close the day at Fratello’s Prosecco Bar, just outside the Old Town, sipping Croatian sparkling wine on its glorious sea-view terrace. Find the best restaurants in the city with our guide.

Lokrum islet is a lush escape of pines, palms and cacti, and a rocky shore with spots for bathing. There is an abandoned 11th-century Benedictine Monastery. Climb to the highest point of the 19th-century Fort Royal for panoramic views. In summer, regular taxi-boats depart from the old harbour (journey time: 10 minutes; note that all visitors have to leave Lokrum by sunset).

Alternatively, take a ferry to the Elafiti islands of Lopud and Šipan to kayak, swim, snorkel and cliff-jump. Don’t miss Šunj, one of Croatia’s rare sandy beaches, when in Lopud.On the beach, several make-shift bars serve chilled drinks and snack until the sun goes down.

For most people, the best months to come here are May to June or September to October – think sunny days with the sea warm enough to swim, and hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions open, but with less crowds – though it will still be busy.

During peak season, July to August, Dubrovnik is over-run by tourists –hotel prices rocket, restaurants and beaches are packed, and there are queues at all the main attractions, but on the plus side you get the Dubrovnik Summer Festival and a glitzy nightlife.

Low season, November to April, can be lovely, though most facilities are closed and the weather is less reliable. The down-side of tourism is that many locals have sold up and moved to the Lapad suburb, so the Old Town is semi-abandoned come winter.Some hotels and restaurants now open for Christmas and New Year, but almost everything is shut through the rest of January. And while a few places reopen for Carnival in February, the new season only really begins at Easter.

Natural Rose face cream (krema od ruža) is made to a secret medieval recipe atLjekarna Male Braće, set inside the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery.

Ujespecialises in Dalmatian olive oil. Its best-selling Brachia virgin comes in a stylish olive-shaped white ceramic flask.

Kawanow stocks a discrete selection of quality Croatian wines as well as hip designer items.

• British Consulate:The British Honorary Consulate Dubrovnik is closed until further notice. If you need consular assistance in the area, you are advised to call the British Embassy Zagreb (Ivana Lučića 4, Zagreb; 00 385 1 600 9100;gov.uk)
• Croatian Emergency services: Dial 112
• Dubrovnik Tourist Office: Brsalje 5 (just outside the old town, close to Pile Gate); 00 385 20 312011.Open daily Mon-Sat 8am-7pm, Sun 10am-4pm. There is also a smaller tourist information office at Obala Ivana Pavla II, br. 1, Gruž (close to the ferry port); 00 385 20 417983. Open Mon-Sat 8am-2pm, Sun closed. Dubrovnik City Tourist Board website

• Currency:Croatia joined the Euro (€) on Jan 1, 2023
• Telephone code:00 385
• Time difference:+1
• Flight time:London to Dubrovnik is around two hours and 40 minutes